Lovina (Dolphins)

Lovina is a string of quiet coastal villages along North Bali’s shore, west of Singaraja in the Buleleng regency. Its black-sand beaches face the calm Bali Sea, and the pace is far slower than in the south, making it popular with divers, families and travellers looking for a relaxed base in the north.

Lovina is best known for its sunrise dolphin-watching trips. Every morning, fleets of traditional jukung outrigger boats head out to sea in search of wild dolphins, often spinner dolphins, that feed and play in the area. The sight of dozens of boats against the dawn sky, with dolphins leaping ahead, is a quintessential North Bali experience.

What to see

The centre of Lovina is Kalibukbuk, where a large dolphin statue monument stands at the end of the main beach road. Dolphin trips depart early in the morning, returning after a couple of hours, and many include a stop for snorkelling on nearby reefs. On land, the area has several attractions within easy reach: the Banjar hot springs, where water flows from carved dragon-head spouts into pools; Brahmavihara-Arama, Bali’s largest Buddhist monastery, with its miniature Borobudur-style stupa; and a number of waterfalls in the hills behind the coast.

How to visit

• Book a dolphin trip through your hotel or directly with boat operators on the beach the day before; departures are usually around 06:00.
• Shared boats are the cheapest option; private charters cost more. Agree the price and what’s included (snorkel stop, drinks) before boarding.
• Sightings are likely but not guaranteed. Calm seas in the dry season give the best conditions.
• Bring a hat, sunscreen and water, there’s little shade on the boats.

Etiquette & dress

Choose operators who keep a respectful distance from the dolphins and don’t chase them; crowding boats can stress the animals. Don’t try to swim with or feed the dolphins. Life jackets should be available, ask for them, especially for children. On land, dress modestly when visiting temples or the monastery (sarongs available at the entrances).

Lovina’s beaches are quiet and good for sunset walks. The volcanic sand gets hot at midday, so bring sandals. Snorkelling off the reefs is best in the morning when the water is calm and visibility is good.

Evenings in Kalibukbuk are relaxed, with beachfront warungs grilling fresh fish and small bars playing live music. Many visitors find two or three nights in Lovina the right amount of time to combine a dolphin trip with waterfalls, hot springs and a day of diving or snorkelling. The whole coast also makes a good base for the long drive to West Bali National Park, and accommodation is generally cheaper than in the south, from simple guesthouses to beachfront resorts.

Combine it with

• Banjar hot springs, about 15 minutes west.
• Brahmavihara-Arama Buddhist monastery near Banjar.
• Git Git and Sekumpul waterfalls in the hills.
• West Bali National Park and Menjangan Island, 1.5 hours west.